In our Taste Test series, BA editors conduct blind comparisons to discover the best supermarket staples (like hot dogs or vanilla ice cream). Today, we dive in to figure out which mayonnaise you should grab off the shelf.
Your choice of mayonnaise is highly personal. Perhaps you’re devoted to Hellmann’s after a childhood spent swiping it onto tomato sandwiches every summer. Maybe a spiritual awakening in your 20s left you steadfastly committed to Kewpie. Whichever mayo team you’re on, there’s simply no substitute for its creamy twang in your patty melt or for its moist richness in a chocolate cake.
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While not impossible, making mayonnaise at home is a delicate process. You have to coax water and oil, two substances famous for not getting along, into an emulsion. That’s accomplished with the help of raw eggs, the yolks of which contain a group of phospholipids called lecithin, which coats tiny droplets of fat from the oil and bonds it to the water. Traditional methods have you delicately trickle in a stream of oil with one hand as you furiously whisk with the other—not an easy task since too much oil too fast results in a broken oily mess. Thankfully, immersion blenders exist, and using one to mix up mayonnaise is pretty difficult to mess up.
While we can’t imagine anything better than handmade mayonnaise for an ambitious Grand Aioli, when we’re whipping up a quick work-from-home lunch, it’s store-bought all the way. To find the absolute best mayonnaise, our staff gathered in the test kitchen for what may have been our most opinionated taste test yet.
How we set up our blind taste test
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Nobody should have to eat plain mayonnaise—let alone nine plain mayonnaises. It’s a fate we wouldn’t wish on our worst enemy. Instead, we heated up french fries and tater tots in the oven, and used those as crispy vessels. We plopped (and swirled and swooshed—we can’t help it) each mayonnaise onto a plate, then hid the container so its brand was unknown to the tasters. Then, once our discerning staffers gathered round in the test kitchen, we gave each mayo several tastes—no double-dipping—to get a clear picture of its texture and flavor. Finally, we eliminated our definite passes and narrowed down the standouts.
How we picked the products
We wanted to test mayonnaise in its purest form. To us, that meant that we wouldn’t include variations like light mayo, any made with alternative oils (like olive or avocado), or vegan versions. Miracle Whip, which, per USDA guidelines, can’t even call itself mayonnaise because of its lower oil content, also didn’t make the cut.
After determining what we didn’t want, we settled on what we did. As for all of our taste tests, we compiled popular supermarket brands by touring the internet—scouring some opinionated Reddit threads and asking our editors to name their favorites. Our final list included nine brands of mayonnaise, some of which were supermarket white labels and others that were well-known condiment brands.
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