Your edges play a huge role in framing your face and how your hair looks—the swoops and swirls you create with your baby hairs and edge control are always the cherry on top of any super-cute hairstyle. That comes at a price, though—because it’s all fun and games until one day, you look in the mirror and notice that your edges aren’t as thick as they used to be. Over-styling and over-handling your hairline can put a strain on your fragile baby hairs, causing them to thin and break off over time. And if you don’t stop over-manipulating them, you could end up with permanent hair loss.
But here’s some good news: If you haven’t passed the point of no return, it is possible to grow back your edges. Ahead, I spoke with three experts to figure out what steps you can take to get a thicker and fuller hairline.
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What causes thinning edges?
According to our hair experts, you can usually blame your thinning hair line on these three reasons:
1. Genetics
Yup, your DNA could be at fault for your edges breaking off. If this is the reason for your thinning edges, the odds that you can stop the breakage from happening aren’t great (sorry!). “Sometimes you can treat it or prevent it,” says Joy Williams, executive master educator for Chi Haircare. “But either way, you should ask your mom or grandmother what they’ve dealt with, so you know what to expect in the future.”
2. Tension from hairstyles and/or chemical treatments
Yes, a high ponytail, those teeny-tiny box braids, and that sleek bun might look amazing, but if your style is too tight, all that tension can cause your hairline to thin, says J. Williams. And over time, that thinning could turn into traction alopecia, a type of hair loss caused by the over-styling and pulling of your hair. If you suspect you’re dealing with hair loss—not just breakage—both J. Williams and Patricia Williams, a hairstylist and brand educator for Creme of Nature, recommend going to see a dermatologist or a trichologist ASAP.
Harsh chemical treatments, like bleaching your hair or relaxing it, can also contribute to hairline breakage—especially if you see a stylist who doesn’t really know what they’re doing, says Paul Mitchell brand ambassador, Cesar DeLeon Ramirez. So hit pause on those hair treatments as well if you’re worried about your edge health.
3. Medical conditions or hormonal changes
Hormonal changes, thyroid conditions, and even a change in medication can all contribute to your thinning hairline, says J. Williams. If you think that could be the case, make an appointment with your doctor to come up with a plan of action.
How can you grow your edges back?
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If your thinning edges aren’t tied to your genes or something serious going on internally, you’re in luck, because there are several steps you can take to get a thick, happy, and healthy hairline.
1. Avoid hairstyles that are too tight
Take a break from any hairstyles that put too much tension on your hairline, says P. Williams. Yes, this includes protective styles. Even though they have the word “protective” in the name, if you go for the wrong stylist, a lot of these looks can potentially damage your edges.
Skip any braided styles that are too heavy and let your stylist know if you feel any pulling or tugging during the installation process. If they don’t ease up, it’s probably time to find a new stylist. Oh, and you want to be careful with wigs too, says P. Williams. A wig that’s too tight or too loose can also cause your edges to thin—and all the tension and friction that comes with gluing your wig down can also lead to breakage.
Once your hair grows back, if you want to go back to protective styles, Ramirez recommends leaving out your edges when you’re getting your hair braided or when you throw it up into a ponytail. And if you decide to wear a wig, never, ever, remove it without applying proper glue remover first, says Ramirez.
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2. Be super gentle when brushing your hair
Trust me, I get that it takes a lot of effort to pull your hair back into a bun or a ponytail, but I’m going to need you to handle your edges with care if you want to reverse any breakage. According to P. Williams, over-brushing your edges with a hard boar bristle brush can weaken your already fragile baby hairs. Instead, try a brush with softer bristles—or even a toothbrush—to gently lay your edges flat.
3. Take a break from heat tools
Thick edges are healthy edges, so back away from the flat iron. Excessive use of hair straighteners, blow dryers, and curling wands can cause your edges to sizzle, fry, and break off. And if you absolutely need to use heat on your hair, spritz on a heat-protectant spray every single time.
4. Wrap your hair before bed
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Your hairline’s love language? Acts of service—so show your edges you care about them by wrapping your hair with a silk or satin scarf or bonnet before bed. The smooth texture of the fabric not only prevents friction and any potential breakage, but it also helps your hair retain moisture.
5. Moisturize your edges
Speaking of moisture, according to J. Williams, applying a small amount of Jamaican Black Castor Oil to your edges at night can help to boost hydration levels, while also strengthening your hairline.
Intensive conditioning is a major key to promoting hairline growth, says P. Williams. She recommends working a protein-based leave-in conditioner into your daily haircare routine, as well as doing weekly deep-conditioning treatments.
6. Eat your veggies
J. Williams and Ramirez both agree that a balanced diet is super important when it comes to a healthy hairline. “A healthy diet that’s high in antioxidants can help your hair grow fuller and thicker,” says J. Williams. If your diet mainly consists of chocolate chip cookies and dollar-slice pizza, your body might not be getting the nutrients it needs to grow out your hair. Time to add a vegetable (or two) onto your plate, and rather than always reaching for processed foods, go for whole foods packed with antioxidants, like spinach, red peppers, avocado, and eggs, says J. Williams.
7. Don’t ignore your scalp care
You need to show your scalp—not just your hair—some love too. Ramirez recommends treating your scalp with hydrating treatments that also help stimulate blood flow (something that’s important for hair growth). So, be sure invest in a scalp treatment or mask every week or so.
How long does it take to regrow your edges?
You’re going to need to practice some patience, because it takes time to grow your edges back. According to P. Williams, hair typically grows 1/2 inch per month, so six inches per year. If you aren’t dealing with serious hair loss and you’re following a healthy routine, it’ll take about three months to see a difference in your hairline.
The final word
There’s no magic product out there that’ll resurrect your thinning edges overnight, but there are steps you can take to grow your hairline fuller and thicker. Keep it moisturized, chill with the hot tools, and go easy on the brushing. Basically, if you leave your edges alone, they’ll begin to grow back. I mean, it makes sense—we all need a break every now and then, right?
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